Relais Histó - Puglia

With its highly pleasant climate and extremely delicious cuisine, Italy is the perfect travel destination during the summer months. Therefore, this August my husband and I decided to test our wings in the ever so fashionable Puglia, the home of the creamy Burrata cheese. However, instead of staying at one of the classics in Savelletri di Fasano such as Borgo Egnazia and Masseria San Domenico, we opted for a relatively new and smaller hotel on the Ionian coast, Relais Histó San Pietro Sul Mar Piccolo, only a few minutes’ drive from the city of Taranto. This ancient country manor house dating back to the 14^th century has been transformed into a charming hotel comprised of 46 spacious and elegant rooms and suites, a large spa with indoor and outdoor pools as well as a restaurant open for all meals of the day. 

Arriving at Brindisi airport, we rented a car for our stay (which is a must unless you want to stay by the hotel pool and eat from the same restaurant during your entire stay, something which we did not want) and started our journey towards Taranto and the hotel. 40 minutes later, the GPS took us off the motorway on to a road full of holes in the middle of nowhere. Another 10 minutes go past and finally we arrive at the gate which opens upon providing our name (the same goes for the evenings when you must state your name and room number in order to be let in). To our surprise, we are greeted by the manor’s adorable two dogs upon arrival at the parking. However, there was no member of staff coming to assist with our luggage, something which can be expected by five star luxury hotels. Instead we emptied our car and carried our luggage down the pebble stoned path up to the reception. Not even in the reception did any member of staff offer to assist with our luggage during our check in. Nevertheless, this slight disappointment was swiftly erased from the memory by the double upgrade offered to us thanks to my husband’s membership at SLH (Small Luxury Hotels of the World). As a result, instead of the Mezzanine Suite that we had booked, we were given the Mar Piccolo suite (the hotel’s biggest suite)!

 

The rooms are situated in a separate building, surrounding a beautiful and vast (albeit very dry due to the lack of rain at the time of our visit) inner courtyard filled with lemon trees and a natural spring. The Mar Piccolo suite, our home for the next five days, comprises of a large living room, an equally grand bedroom with a king size bed, two bathrooms (one with a bathtub and the second with a big shower) as well as a terrace overlooking the hotel complex. The interior décor is sparse, although too sparse and no charm for my taste, and light with furniture in creamy tones suitable for the location. The stone covered floor could have had one or two carpets in warm and earthy tones to literally “warm up” the room (and my feet especially in the mornings). Also missing in the room, although available upon request in the spa, were slippers. Personally, I feel that slippers and their quality are important criteria for an ultimate luxury hotel. At Relais Histó, the slippers are unfortunately not very good quality with open toe and a plastic band over the foot preventing it from falling off. On the contrary, the hotel is very generous with its bathrobes as we found two sets in each of our bathrooms as well as bathrobes offered at the spa.

 Whilst on the topic, the spa is definitely worth mentioning. It boasts an extensive wellness circuit through which the kind members of staff show you the way from the Impluvium via the steam room, sauna and several (indoor and outdoor) whirlpools to finally enjoy a cup of tea in the ancient fire grotto. During our stay, we also tested several of the spa’s many treatments with the Sharma massage as well as the Oriental ritual being the best ones. The latter must definitely not be missed as this treatment commences on a hot stone bed (either single or double for couples) with a purified peeling of salt from the Dead Sea followed by a soap massage and shower before the ritual finishes off with a nourishing and relaxing massage. Being a big fan of spas, my husband and I both enjoy heading into the spa for half an hour or so before getting ready for dinner. However, due to the fact that the wellness circuit is not free of charge (it is not open for any drop in like in German and Swiss spas), one must reserve it in advance.

Next to the spa, there is an inviting pool with a deep section connected to a smaller shallow section perfect for children or if you only wish to cool down your legs in the heat. And cooling down is certainly the right word as the water is rather cold. The best way to approach it is by jumping in as fast as you can! One of the days, we spent the entire day soaking up the sun by the pool (note that there are very few parasols available so you should better arrive early) and also having lunch at the pool bar. This is not recommended unless you like cold pasta, mini-Caprese salads or plain sandwiches. 

 

Nevertheless, the breakfast served every morning in the hotel restaurant is not bad. Here you can indulge in Italian pastries, scrambled eggs, cereals and an array of fruits. The servers are attentive and take your orders as soon as you sit down by your table. Noteworthy, the freshly squeezed juices are charged to your bill (grapefruit and orange) which I find shocking!

Overall, this stylish former country manor hotel is well priced compared to similar hotels on the other (Adriatic sea) side of Puglia. Nevertheless, the location is less attractive as you will need a good 30 minutes to get to the sandy (yet amazingly beautiful) beaches of the Ionian sea and just under 15 minutes to get to Taranto where shops and restaurants can be found. Yet, the hotel is very charming and the rooms extremely spacious (for Italian standards). Do not miss the spa, its friendly and always smiling staff, as well as its wellness circuit and many treatments (especially the Oriental ritual). Personally I expect more from a five star luxury hotel (such as luggage assistance and slippers in each room) but if you are seeking peacefulness and quietness in the Puglia region, then Relais Histó is clearly something to try. Just do not forget the biscuits for the cute dogs!  

Learn more about the hotel here.