After a week of relaxation in the
south of Italy, it is time to move north to one of my favourite regions known
for its delicious wines, Panzanella and stunning countryside, as well as its much reputed
and culturally rich capital, Florence. Of course, I am referring to the region
of Tuscany, located in the centre of Italy. Since the beginning of time
(almost) there has been a constant battle between France and Italy as to which
country possesses the best cuisine. When asking my husband (who is French) or
other fellow countrymen of his, the 12 points always go to France, whereas my
Italian friends vote for (surprise, surprise) Italy. However, there is at least
one Frenchman who can proudly admit that he is passionate about Italy and its
heavenly cuisine. Therefore, in 2004, he teamed up with the Moretti family and
opened a true luxury haven in the very heart of Tuscany. Meet L’Andana, Alain
Ducasse’s Italian pearl.
(Photo from Leading Hotels of the World)
My husband and I were recommended
this small countryside resort by a friend of ours a few years ago. However, it
was not until this year that we rediscovered L’Andana when searching for a
romantic luxury hotel in the Tuscan region on LHW (Leading Hotels of the
World), and thus decided to explore the hotel.
Having been in Puglia, we took a
flight from Brindisi up to Rome from where we had a two-hour drive to L’Andana
and its neighbouring city, Grosseto. The former hunting lodge transformed into an
hotel is situated off a small road, at the far end of a long driveway which
takes us past the resort’s very own cattle and vineyards. We arrive at the car
park in front of the resort where we are shown the way up the stairs to the
main entrance. The reception desk is located in a spacious and light lobby/bar
furnished with black and white chairs and sofas, as well as dark brown wooden tables
around the big fire place. A gold chandelier is hanging in the middle of the
ceiling, adding even more chicness to the room. The staff behind the check in
desk are friendly and welcoming, and the entire check in procedure is fast and
efficient. Moreover, thanks to my husband’s Leaders Club membership (which includes complimentary
continental breakfast, complimentary nights, room upgrades upon availability,
complimentary Internet access, early check-in and late check-out upon
available, etc.), we are happily being told that we receive a triple (!)
upgrade to one of the hotel’s Prestige Suites!
While I did not know what to expect
from the room, I must say that I was shocked when opening the door to our
suite! In front of us, in the midst of the living room, there was a humongous
bathtub (for at least 10 people)! I have never seen anything like it! When my
husband went to get a massage, I turned on the two existing taps in order to
surprise him with a romantic bath with the hotel’s scented and luxury ETRO
products before dinner. An hour later when he got back, the tub was not more
than half full (!), but as it was more than enough to turn on the bubble features,
I decided that half full was adequate. Based on my husband’s reaction when he
got back to the room and saw what had been prepared for him, I confirm that the
tub does not have to be full in order to be perfect.
Let’s get back to the rest of the
room, the living room opens up to an equally grand bedroom with a king size bed,
working desk, library (with a great deal of fashion and cultural magazines in
various languages) as well as a beautiful fire place. The bedroom is connected
to a walk-in closet/corridor leading in to the marble bathroom with double sinks
(for him and her), a shower and separate toilet. The overall style is romantic
with Roman sculptures and paintings mixed with French-style furniture in warm
dusty and beige tones decorating the room. One important criterion of mine determining
the level of luxury of a hotel is the quality of the laundry bag. At L’Andana,
this criterion is met with ease as the hotel’s laundry bags are made of finest
cotton. However, I give the hotel a small minus due to its lack of women’s
sized slippers (I highly appreciate hotels which offer this as it is relatively
rare amongst luxury hotels).
During our brief visit at L’Andana,
we also tried the spa (in collaboration with ESPA) which contains a sauna, a
steam room, a Jacuzzi, one indoor and two outdoor pools as well as several
treatments. To our disappointment, due to a technical problem the Jaccuzzi had
no hot water during our visit. Nevertheless, the spa is not bad for a non-Germanic
spa (often Germanic spas contain sauna landscapes with several saunas and steam
rooms with different themes, temperature and style, which is rare outside of
Germany, Austria and Switzerland). The entire spa area is lit up with large
candles and soft music is played resulting in a calm and relaxing ambience. Furthermore,
the sauna and steam room are rather small, but at a good temperature and relatively
charming, and towels are generously distributed inside the spa (at a self-service
basis) and by the outdoor pools. Surprisingly (and scandalously!), this is not
always the case at luxury hotels, for example at Les Thermes Marins in Monaco (the
newly refurbished spa of hotel L’Hermitage and Hôtel de Paris where guests must
ask for towels and are allowed one per guest). Moreover, the swimming pools
(both indoor and outdoor) could have been slightly warmer. Unfortunately, and due
to our late arrival (and last minute decision to book spa treatments), only my
husband was able to have a 60-minute full body aromatherapy massage (the spa
had no other treatments available for me) of which he was satisfied. I wish
that we would have been able to test more of ESPA’s beauty and therapeutic
treatments at L’Andana in order to provide a better opinion and recommendation,
but this will have to wait until next time. Concerning refreshments, water can
be found next to the sauna as well as herbal tea by the spa reception, but
neither fruits nor other snacks such as dried nuts and fruits are offered at
the spa (another luxury detail that I personally value high). Moreover, the
outside pool next to the spa offers a bar with several alcoholic and non-alcoholic
refreshments.
(Photo from Leading Hotels of the World)
From spa refreshments to the hotel breakfast
which is served in the Fattoria kitchen and can be devoured on the sunny
terrace in front of the hotel chapel. As expected with a French chef at the
helm, the fresh pastries and donuts (beignets) are crispy and deliciously rich
in butter (like it should be), and the fruit tartes are plentiful. Should you
wish a crêpe or an omelet, the chef is waiting to take your order and cook it
in front of you, which is an amusing animation. Try also the homemade yoghurts! There
are not a great variety of fresh fruits and sadly, the juices are not freshly squeezed
(as can be expected from a hotel of this standard). Also, the cappuccino lacks
more foam and could have been creamier (but that is my opinion). Nonetheless,
Ducasse’s breakfast is delicious and very good.
Finally, and almost most importantly
during a stay at L’Andana, you must not miss the Michelin starred TrattoriaToscana which is Ducasse’s Italian pearl. The staff are kind (with the French Maître
d’hôtel and Sommelier being especially welcoming and sociable) and the Italian
cuisine is simple and authentically Tuscan yet rich in flavours (you must try
the Ricotta and Spinach Gnocchis as well as the Panzanella and Mozzarella di
Buffala Sandwich). Take a stroll through the hotel gardens in order to reach
the restaurant and former granary which is the epitome of rustic and and
elegant Tuscan charm, and enjoy a romantic dinner here with great local wines.
Frankly, L’Andana is an enchanting
resort. Everything, from the rooms and service down to the very small details
such as laundry bags, toilet amenities and welcome gifts (crunchy cookies, fruits and a bottle of wine), oozes luxury. Despite
our efforts, finding imperfections are very difficult. Only minor weaknesses
such as the lack of women’s sized slippers, the non-functional Jaccuzzi at the
time of our visit (which should be functional at the time of publish), as well
as the lack of lunch possibilities before 12.30pm (however, the hotel made an
exception and prepared some light dishes for my husband and I in order for us
to catch our flight on time) can be found. I can easily say that this is one of
the most luxurious hotels that I have ever tried, and thus one of my
favourites! Bravo Alain Ducasse and L’Andana!
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